In the summer time my friend Bill and I stand in line every other Saturday to get into the bike sale at our local thrift store St. Vincent DePaul. One gloomy cloud covered day I found myself some sunshine in the form of an old rust covered 99' Dyno Detour. Price was right, and I knew I had to get it up and running to start riding some flatland again.
Although it was in rough shape, I knew an OA (Oxalic Acid) bath would clean it right up. Here's a great thread on how to do this: https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132
So I took it all apart and started planning the upgrades I wanted to make based on parts I had laying around and what I wanted to spend.
Once I had it all apart, I took off all the decals. Yes, you can scold me for this. But I just like the all chrome naked look. I used a heat gun and some Bestine to get rid of all the sticker gunk before soaking it in the OA bath.
I used 1 gallon of OA in 25 gallons of water in my tub and left all the parts to soak overnight before pulling them out and rinsing them off with water / baking soda mix to neutralize the OA bath. After drying, I used "Frame Saver" spray inside all the weep holes to keep the parts from rusting from the inside. Both of these things can be ordered from Amazon.
Next I had to tear the wheels all apart and address the hoops. I found a NOS Nankai 48h freecoaster on the BMX Museum and decided to upgrade the front hub to sealed bearings and chromoly axle. I decided to mask off the side walls since the chrome on them was still in pretty good shape. I media blasted the main surfaces and painted them with flat black and neon splatter.
Most hubs that are "loose ball" can be fitted with sealed cartridges with some extra work. In my case, I happen to have some bearings that fit right into the hub, but I would need to make my own cones. Luckily I have access to a lathe and know how to use it...
Once I had the hub worked out and the hoops painted, I re-laced them up.
With the wheels built, tires mounted, it was time to re-assemble and get it dialed. Of course I used my own BASIC parts where appropriate including the grips, bar ends, valve caps and cable ends.