Hutch Pro Racer - BMX Rebuild and Restore 02

Posted by Matthew Poster on

In the previous post, I described my intentions and the parts breakdown of the Hutch as it was given to me. In this post I tear the bike apart and describe the order of operations I used for dis-assembly. Let the fun begin...

Here is a picture and list of the tools I used to take this fine machine apart:

I started by removing the soft goods like the handlebar, stem and frame pads along with small pieces of tape holding the brake cable to the frame, etc. This was easy and didn't require anything but my hands.

Next I removed the grips, this can be done a couple ways. You can use an air nozzle and compressor to blast them off or do what I did and gently insert a Small flat bladed screwdriver between the handlebar and grip. You have to be careful not to dig into / puncture the grip or dig into the handlebar paint if they are "fused" to the handlebar. Then I sprayed a little simple green down into the grip and let it settle and find it's way around while I gently twisted the grip back and forth until it slid off the bars. Repeat for the other grip.

After removing the grips I used my 10mm open end to remove the rear brake.

I remove the wheels next by using a 15mm open end wrench and set them to the side so I can set up my bench vise with the 4 prong BMX freewheel tool. The axle nuts get in the way here, so they also had to be removed from the drive side of the wheel. This allows the axle to go through the tool and engage the freewheel.

Tires and tubes are next. I typically just use my hands for this and avoid putting tools into the tires to pry them off. This can be more difficult if you don't have strong fingers and thumbs, but it prevents puncturing the tubes with any kind of sharp tool or pinching the tubes when prying the tires off.

Start by deflating as much air out of the wheel as possible and pinching the tire and tube with your thumbs opposite of the valve stem. This will allow the most room for the tire to pull away from the rim.

After you get a small part of the tire bead off the rim, use your hands to work the rest of the bead free all the way around the wheel.

After one bead of the tire is free, start again opposite of the valve and pinch the tire while pulling it off the same side as the first bead. The tire should peel off the wheel easily. Repeat for the other wheel.

Chains can be tricky and will require a chain tool if you don't have a master link. Fortunately I had a master link and used my Small flat bladed screwdriver to gently pry one side of the top link part free. WARNING BE CAREFUL!!! you can gouge yourself here and get injured!

After the first part is off, you should be able to wiggle the second chain plate free and remove the rest of the link and chain entirely form the bike.

I used my 15mm open end wrench to remove the pedals. The standard "righty tighty, lefty loosy" does not apply for both pedals! WARNING, the non-drive side is reversed thread!

The handlebar and stem were next, I used the SAE allen set and 1/2" open end wrench to loosen the hardware. The DK stem uses SAE hardware. After loosening the quill bolt about 1/4" up, I had to gently tap it with my Double Faced Soft Mallet to break the wedge free inside. Then the stem came out easily.

 

To remove the seat, seat post and clamp I just used my 14mm open end wrench on the seat guts and the Park 3-way allen key on the clamp. After the hardware was loose, I just twisted and pulled the seat off the post and post and clamp out and off of the frame.

I went after the headset bearings next. Using my Large flat wrench I loosened the top nut and removed it with the lock washer and top race. The fork slides out of the frame and your left with the cups in the frame and crown race on the fork.

I used my Double Faced Soft Mallet and Center punch on my bench to gently tap the race off the fork, being careful to go side to side and evenly tap it off the fork.

Then I used my Double Faced Soft Mallet and Park Headset Cup Remover to get the cups out of the frame. Using the Park Headset Cup Remover for the first time can be a little confusing. You have to slide it into the cups and let it "click" into place and be sure the lips of the tool are resting on the edge of the cup inside the headtube.

The bottom bracket on this bike was the trickiest and most difficult to remove due to the limited space you have. WARNING, the non-drive side of the BB is reversed thread! First I took off the lock nut, lock washer and non-drive bearing race using my Large flat wrench. Then I gently inserted my Small flat bladed screwdriver through the space between the crank arm and bearing to get access to tap out the drive side bearing.

Once the drive side bearing comes out, you have a little more space from that side to access the non-drive side bearing. Again gently tapping the bearing out of the BB, being careful NOT to punch into the bearing side shields and ruining them.

After the bearings are out, you snake the crank out of the frame. I set it up in my bench vise to hold the crank securely while I use my Large flat wrench to remove the bearing race that also holds on the spider / sprocket.

And voila.... The bike is completely dis-assembled and ready to dance!

 

Next we'll be going through the wheelset, dis-assembling them and re-lacing the hoops with some nicely refreshed Philwood hubs that I restored and made custom axles for. You can check it our here!